With very few addition and very good information we can achieve a nice model that has nothing to envy the most recent Tamiya's kits. A small Japanese company, Chevron models, manufactures a handmade kit to transform the Ferrari T into the last and curious T2, that highlights for its water radiators and air exit position. By Christian Franke I bought one that had been partially built, which involves double work, missing parts, etc.
This article aims at sharing with pictures the experience to rescue and old odd kit, improving it to the best of my skills. Some were sold other remains in my showcase. Since that moment, I've always had in my mind the idea of building a model of the JS11 which impressed me when I saw it in , and detail it as much as possible, because these Heller kits are really poor in quality and inaccurate.
So, a few months ago, while I was talking with an importer, I saw the box in his office and the idea came back back to my mind. Needless to say that a few hours later I was examining the kit in my house. And, until the arrival of the Internet, I used to go to local hobby stores to purchase the kits I wanted.
Then, surfing the net, I found sites as Modelersite where I discovered lots of new things and brands, other scale models, and above all, different ways of seeing and developing this activity.
By Gennaro Zappa New inline four cylinder engine, higher speed, and torque. New clutch re-designed as well as the gear box to provide more power. The purpose of this note would not be to tell you how I built the model, because this kit has been discontinued more than ten years ago, so it is quite difficult to get one. I don't think it is reasonable to write a thorough note on specific details; so I will concentrate in general detailing that can be applied to other models with similar characteristics The building is quite simple, the only real problem is in the chassis.
The car's body is in fact the monocoque, it is painted in white and orange colors; the challenge was, building the whole chassis with the two previously painted parts. By Nicolas Perez Fiorentini In this model I added all possible scratchbuilt details, no etched parts, resin ones…etc.
In the article below, you will have a clear explanation about how I made and added every new part, cable, electronic box,…etc. From that moment on, my affair with which, I think is the best scale car kit ever produced, began. And here my comment: probably, you have seen better detailed kits, or even superb models limited editions. The article is based on showing the reader how a model can be recycled for its use, converting it in a different project from the original. By Martin Ulreich There was some learning curve associated to all that detail, at least for me, but also a lots of fun.
A big issue was the handling of Alclad treated parts, it is very easy to damage the metallic look of the paint. In the meantime Alclad offers a water based sealer that shows promising results and should help here.
The parts were big but the building sequence was almost identical to the scale models. Something similar to airplane models, first you have to finish the cockpit and then you have to glue it between the fuselage sides and then paint everything; the difference here is that in our case motorcycles we paint the frame halves before gluing them. One of the most conflictive models was the T3, so many were the differences regarding the Tamiya's T and T4 models that it seemed impossible to start from them.
Although the models were offered like die-cast, just the motor, floor and other chassis parts were made of white metal, other parts were plastic and a gorgeous painted ABS body. I obtained the model on in an auction at eBay for a ridiculous low price. I wanted the red but the low price immediately made the yellow as my favorite color.
My first impression, when I received the terrific packaging, was little disappointed. The engine and brakes were poor detailed and crude painted, although the carbon fiber texture, interior and fabric seat belts was well represented. By Mark Jones I was swapping in a Big-Block to replace the kit's Small Block and putting a C4 Corvette front suspension under the front end To my knowledge, the Z was an improved copy of the Honda CBFour and, as it was common to Japanese manufacturers, each new model included several versions in order to cover the requirements of the Japanese police.
This model was inspired in a small picture from the '70 decades. I've built 13 models based on the , and Tamiya kits. Since the kits are so pricey, some of those models were sold to collectors and others were disassembled in order to build new versions. Speaking about this kit, last year in particular was quite intense since I built five models, combining parts, aftermarket The one I'll show you here, was the last of that series, with a vintage look, sport style and some extra details that a car being on the leading edge of technology might have nowadays.
Today, after not many years, we have a great realm of information on this car through a lot of pictures, and the Internet. All this pictures shows us that the kit is very well engineered and it has a high quality; but, if you are looking for realism, then there are some missing details, which are very noticeable in the pictures. By Christian Jung So, if you want to get an acceptable version for your Ferrari collection, you will be forced to scratchbuild some new parts.
Fortunately the body seems to be well shaped. A year before Tamiya released the predecessor of the B2, the Ferrari B from The first look on the Protar box shows that there are some parts really out of scale.
Especially the tires and the rims which look like truck wheels. Doyusha as well as Testor offered the kit coming from the same Otaki moulds. You can also add the real size and scaled size to find the scale factor. Making a measurement smaller or larger, known as scale conversion, requires a common scale factor, which you can use to multiply or divide all measurements by. To scale a measurement down to a smaller measurement, for instance, when making a blueprint, simply divide the real measurement by the scale factor.
To convert a scaled measurement up to the actual measurement, simply multiply the smaller measurement by the scale factor. A scale factor is a ratio of two corresponding measurements or lengths. You can use the factor to increase or decrease the dimensions of a geometric shape, drawing, or model to different sizes.
Now all you need to do is simply pick the Letter-size format best for US or A4-size. Print double-sided and laminate, if you wish! Want to make a sofa of inch wide? Depth and height?
Again, simply look up the column and scroll right to get the scaled down version. Now THAT is easy-peasy! You can almost throw away your calculator! Hi Eric, for scale, take the real-life measurement in inches, and divide by For scale, take the real-life measurement in inches, and divide by A shortcut is to use the scale for your since the difference is negligible. And for , you can either divide the by 2 to get scale , or divide the by 3 to get scale.
You are a lifesaver! Many thanks for making this available! It can be used to scale objects in 1, 2 or 3 dimensions and as fractions, ratios, percentages, or decimals. When a scale factor is applied, the size of the object is increased or decreased according to the desired scale.
Even though the image size has been manipulated, the ratios of each dimension should mirror those of the original. To scale an object to a larger size, you simply multiply each dimension by the required scale factor. To scale an object to a smaller size, you simply divide each dimension by the required scale factor.
However, if this is not the case, some additional work may be required. For, example, let's say we have a ratio of
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